The following article was contributed by Kathryn Khadija Leverette, of Urban Skin Solutions.  Kathryn (Kat) is the CEO of Urban Skin Solutions, Inc. and specializes in acne and clinical skin care for diverse skin tones in Oakland, California.

For those black men who want a positive shaving experience, the following are Shaving Rules.



 

Do plan to communicate with a qualified skin care professional until (a) total clearing is achieved, (b) you've stopped "bumping up", (c) your shaving habits are "on point" and (d) you're consistent with your home care and new shaving method.

Do shave with the PFB Bump Fighter or BIC Disposable or Sensitive Skin with an unscented shaving cream, gel or soap, or use a sanitized non-rotary liner or clippers.  Use disposable razors once or twice, and make sure they're clean and dry after use.

Don't attempt to use those triple, four or five-blade "closer-shaving" razors if you're bump prone.  The first blade stretches the skin, while the other blades shave too close, cutting the hair off below the skin line.  When the skin "bounces back", those hairs are setup to be trapped repreatedly under the skin every time you shave that way.

Don't tweeze or wax your ingrown hairs and don't let anyone else do it to you.  Tweezing and waxing are not permanent hair removal.  When tose ingrown hairs regrow (in two to three weeks), they get trapped in the curved hair follicle below the skin line.  Those areas quickly become "hot spots" of chronic ingrowns and scarring, so resist the urge to get in that mirror to tweeze or pick.

Authorized release: Do unhook visible surface ingrowns with a sterile needle and snip the hair off with a clean cuticle scissor.  Do not attempt to "dig out" deep ingrowns!

Don't pick at your bumps or tamper with your skin.  This introduces secondary bacteria, leading to inflammation, delayed healing, larger dark blemishes and scarring.

Don't even think about trying a rotary shaver.  Circular blade motion cuts the hair in every imaginable direction.  Count on major trouble if you're even slightly bump-prone.

Don't shave upward, against the grain, or back and forth over the same spots trying to get a closer shave.  The built-in trade-off is shaving less close for 100% clearer skin.

Don't use trimmers designed for shaping eyebrows from the beauty supply store.

Don't use depilatories or shaving powders (which contain lye) if you want to achieve an even skin tone.  Dark beard "shadowing" is caused by repeated chemical burns, inflammation and sun exposure.

Don't forget to spray clipper disinfectant on razors, clipper and/or liner blades, guards and attachments before and after shaving to kill bacteria and prolong the life of the blades.  Don't forget to take some with you to the barbershop.  Do watch for barbershop sanitation (or lack of it).

Don't attempt to take a blade to your face for the very first time until you understand how to shave and are using appropriate skin care products to discourage shaving bumps.

Don't try to use the same clipper and liner blades for the rest of your life.  Do change your clipper, trimmer and liner blades every four months.  Take them with you to make sure you purchase the right blades.

Don't share your clippers, trimmers or liners with anyone...ever.

Don't over-scrub your skin or rub your face with a towel.  Instead, blot your face dry with a soft hand towel or a Viva paper towel.  Don't wipe sweat; blot dry instead!

Do plan to purchase home care product refills before you run out, and don't slack up on your routine.

Don't get electrolysis unless your practicioner uses the 'blend' method and has lots of experience working with darker skin tones and curved hair follicles.

Do explore laser hair removal if your practicioner uses a laser designed for darker skin tones and is experienced working with people of color.

© 2010 Kathryn Khadija Leverette, Urban Skin Solutions, Inc. and urbanskin.com

Published with permission. The material on urbanskin.com is provided for educational purposes only,

and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

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